RussiaThe Curonian Spit National Park is located in the Kaliningrad Region on a narrow strip of land between the salty Baltic Sea and the freshwater Curonian Lagoon. The park is unique in that it is the largest sand bar in the world.
It's about 40 kilometers from Kaliningrad to the edge of the Curonian Spit. Direct public transportation is only available during the high tourist season; a bus runs to the spit from May to September. At other times of the year, if you don't want to take a taxi, a rental car, or a bus tour, you'll need to get to Zelenogorsk—this small resort town is the closest to the spit. Zelenogorsk can also be reached by train, but from there you'll need either a regular bus or a taxi. It's difficult to see all the interesting places on the spit: the Russian part of the spit is 48 kilometers long, unique natural sites and eco-trails are located quite far from each other, and public transportation is infrequent. The spit is 98 kilometers long, half of which is in Lithuania.
According to the director, the Curonian Spit is an unusual geographical feature. It is home to settlements where people live, scientists work, and tourists visit. At the same time, the spit is home to a variety of animals and rare and unique plants.
"Today, tourists focus on the nature trails; we have about seven of them, but we can't expand the number of trails too much for fear of harming nature," explains Anatoly Kalina. "The entire national park is divided into separate, mosaic-style areas, of which only recreational and economic areas (villages) are permitted to be visited, while the remaining areas are essentially a nature reserve. If we completely surrender the spit to tourists, its uniqueness will disappear."
I'm wondering how to maintain this balance so that we can see the unique plants, dunes, and animals without disturbing the natural balance?
"I've been answering this question for many years now—it's about creating and developing ecological trails," says Anatoly Kalina. "We need to create conditions for seeing the most beautiful places, sights, and learning about history, without disturbing the fragile natural balance. One of the projects we're currently working on is the construction of a bike path. It will be approximately 44 kilometers long. The bike path will completely follow the topography of the national park. This is the first project of its kind in Russia. We're also working on developing water routes..."
According to the director, the main objective of the Curonian Spit National Park's environmental education activities is to support the preservation of biological and landscape diversity and historical and cultural heritage, as well as to foster a caring attitude toward nature and develop an environmental culture among visitors.
Incidentally, walking and picking mushrooms and berries on the Curonian Spit is permitted, but only within the boundaries of recreational areas specially designated for visiting and recreation.
The kingdom of bird voices
The Curonian Spit is also known as the "bird bridge." Spring and autumn migratory routes for birds pass over water, but birds, especially non-waterfowl, need to rest, so they choose areas with nearby soil, avoiding long flights over open water. The White Sea-Baltic Bird Migration Route passes through this area, so millions of birds fly across this small stretch of land at this time of year. They head for the warmer climates of Southern Europe and Africa.
At the 23rd kilometer of the spit, near the village of Rybachy, is the Fringilla field station of the Zoological Institute of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Research on migration routes and bird banding is conducted here. We were lucky to arrive just as the station was closing—they're on holiday from November to March.
The birdwatchers' traps, more than fifteen meters high, stand on the dunes at the edge of a pine forest and resemble spread-out fishing nets.
"Our goal isn't to catch every bird," explains Arseniy Tsvey, a senior researcher and PhD candidate in biology. "During the migration period, the traps are checked every hour, sometimes every half hour. This year, there were a lot of birds; we managed to catch around fifty thousand birds—twice as many as last season. One day in October, we set a record of sorts: we banded and recorded 3700 birds."
We were told that the field station is a division of the Rybachy biological station, which, in turn, was the successor to the world's first ornithological station, founded in Rossitten (now the village of Rybachy) back in 1901 by the German theologian Johannes Thienemann. His passion for birds overcame his love of theology, and the first birds ringed at the station were hooded crows.
The inhabitants of the spit had long known how to catch them. Crows were considered a delicacy—they were plucked, salted in barrels, smoked, and sold at fairs. And in Königsberg restaurants, you could find dishes made from gray crow. They were called "pigeons from the Curonian Spit" or "Zarkaus goose." But back then, they caught the birds differently: by casting nets.
Modern fishing traps were designed in 1957 by biological station employee Jānis Jakšis and were primarily designed to catch small songbirds. The most numerous of these are siskins, goldcrests, warblers, warblers, tits, starlings, and thrushes.
Hawks, woodpeckers, cuckoos, and owls are also seen. Historically, the most common bird to visit the spit is the chaffinch, known locally as the "freezing bachelor." This is because the males arrive first in early March and begin settling in, followed by the females about two weeks later. The Latin word for chaffinch is "fringilla," hence the name of the field station. Thanks to a program developed at the Biostation, the capture and banding of birds is now accompanied by a detailed in-vivo examination, allowing for rapid recording of their size, body weight, fat reserves, molt status, and sexual cycle stage.
Arseniy Tsvey showed us how it's done. We caught a titmouse. Wing length is measured with a standard centimeter ruler. This measurement can be used to determine the bird's age, and in adults, even its sex. The fat layer is determined by inflating the feathers on the neck and belly. Birds have translucent skin, making the fat layer, if present, easily visible. To determine the bird's weight, the bird is placed upside down in a cup resembling an ice cream cone and placed on a scale. The process usually takes about twenty seconds. All data is recorded in a log. Each bird has its own ring size.
Mysterious dunes and dancing forest
The most popular eco-trails on the Curonian Spit are “Dancing Forest” and “Efa Height”.
A route featuring an unusual section of coniferous forest, the trunks of which twist and turn intricately, is located at kilometer 37 of the spit. Both adults and children can complete it without any training. It's very easy, just over one kilometer long. There are no steep climbs or stairs; the route runs along boardwalks and is even stroller-friendly.
This forest is nicknamed "the dancing forest" because the tree trunks in this particular section of the spit have an unusual twisted shape at their bases, creating the impression of swirling in a mysterious dance. The cause of this "dance" remains unclear.
"There are various theories, ranging from natural factors: strong winds constantly blowing in one direction, soil composition and properties, to the presence of a certain energy force—a magnetic field," Olga Bolshakova, press secretary for the national park, told us. "Biologists believe the trees were damaged by moths of the leafroller family. They lay their eggs in the terminal bud of the pine tree. When the caterpillars hatch, they completely consume this bud, causing the pine tree to develop a side shoot, which then becomes the main trunk. But this doesn't explain why some trees begin to bend at the very roots, and why not all trees and only in this area."
According to Olga Bolshakova, the "dancing" trees suffer greatly from tourists. Despite the restrictions, many want to take photos next to the pines, climbing them and peeling off the bark. The ring tree has suffered the most. Some visitors believe that climbing through the loop formed by the trunk will make them look younger. Therefore, the most valuable specimens are now protected by wooden fences.
Not far from the "Dancing Forest," approximately five kilometers away, lies one of the highest dunes in Europe—the Orekhovaya Dune (German for Petsch). The dune's highest point, 62 meters, was named Efa Heights in honor of dune inspector Franz Efa, whose work was dedicated to the study and stabilization of shifting sands. The eco-trail is over two kilometers long, requiring an uphill climb along numerous steps. The trail features benches and observation platforms from which you can admire the peninsula's terrain and changing landscapes. A beautiful panorama of the Curonian Lagoon, the Baltic Sea, the dunes, the forest, and the village of Morskoye opens up. However, access to the water is prohibited in the vicinity of the route and observation platform. If you wish to descend to the sea, return to the parking lot and cross to the opposite side of the road. There are wooden walkways and stairs leading down to the sea.
Tourists can come to the spit all year round.
"The tourist routes are also open to visitors in winter," explained Olga Bolshakova. "Starting in the second half of December, our staff hosts costumed fairy tales for children and adults right in the forest. This is extremely popular, but you need to book in advance. We post special dates for these fairy tales on our website."
National park staff believe the spit is beautiful year-round, although winter brings strong winds and the weather isn't ideal for long walks.
RussiaThe Curonian Spit National Park is located in the Kaliningrad Region on a narrow strip of land between the salty Baltic Sea and the freshwater Curonian Lagoon. The park is unique in that it is the largest sand bar in the world.
It's about 40 kilometers from Kaliningrad to the edge of the Curonian Spit. Direct public transportation is only available during the high tourist season; a bus runs to the spit from May to September. At other times of the year, if you don't want to take a taxi, a rental car, or a bus tour, you'll need to get to Zelenogorsk—this small resort town is the closest to the spit. Zelenogorsk can also be reached by train, but from there you'll need either a regular bus or a taxi. It's difficult to see all the interesting places on the spit: the Russian part of the spit is 48 kilometers long, unique natural sites and eco-trails are located quite far from each other, and public transportation is infrequent. The spit is 98 kilometers long, half of which is in Lithuania.
According to the director, the Curonian Spit is an unusual geographical feature. It is home to settlements where people live, scientists work, and tourists visit. At the same time, the spit is home to a variety of animals and rare and unique plants.
"Today, tourists focus on the nature trails; we have about seven of them, but we can't expand the number of trails too much for fear of harming nature," explains Anatoly Kalina. "The entire national park is divided into separate, mosaic-style areas, of which only recreational and economic areas (villages) are permitted to be visited, while the remaining areas are essentially a nature reserve. If we completely surrender the spit to tourists, its uniqueness will disappear."
I'm wondering how to maintain this balance so that we can see the unique plants, dunes, and animals without disturbing the natural balance?
"I've been answering this question for many years now—it's about creating and developing ecological trails," says Anatoly Kalina. "We need to create conditions for seeing the most beautiful places, sights, and learning about history, without disturbing the fragile natural balance. One of the projects we're currently working on is the construction of a bike path. It will be approximately 44 kilometers long. The bike path will completely follow the topography of the national park. This is the first project of its kind in Russia. We're also working on developing water routes..."
According to the director, the main objective of the Curonian Spit National Park's environmental education activities is to support the preservation of biological and landscape diversity and historical and cultural heritage, as well as to foster a caring attitude toward nature and develop an environmental culture among visitors.
Incidentally, walking and picking mushrooms and berries on the Curonian Spit is permitted, but only within the boundaries of recreational areas specially designated for visiting and recreation.
The kingdom of bird voices
The Curonian Spit is also known as the "bird bridge." Spring and autumn migratory routes for birds pass over water, but birds, especially non-waterfowl, need to rest, so they choose areas with nearby soil, avoiding long flights over open water. The White Sea-Baltic Bird Migration Route passes through this area, so millions of birds fly across this small stretch of land at this time of year. They head for the warmer climates of Southern Europe and Africa.
At the 23rd kilometer of the spit, near the village of Rybachy, is the Fringilla field station of the Zoological Institute of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Research on migration routes and bird banding is conducted here. We were lucky to arrive just as the station was closing—they're on holiday from November to March.
The birdwatchers' traps, more than fifteen meters high, stand on the dunes at the edge of a pine forest and resemble spread-out fishing nets.
"Our goal isn't to catch every bird," explains Arseniy Tsvey, a senior researcher and PhD candidate in biology. "During the migration period, the traps are checked every hour, sometimes every half hour. This year, there were a lot of birds; we managed to catch around fifty thousand birds—twice as many as last season. One day in October, we set a record of sorts: we banded and recorded 3700 birds."
We were told that the field station is a division of the Rybachy biological station, which, in turn, was the successor to the world's first ornithological station, founded in Rossitten (now the village of Rybachy) back in 1901 by the German theologian Johannes Thienemann. His passion for birds overcame his love of theology, and the first birds ringed at the station were hooded crows.
The inhabitants of the spit had long known how to catch them. Crows were considered a delicacy—they were plucked, salted in barrels, smoked, and sold at fairs. And in Königsberg restaurants, you could find dishes made from gray crow. They were called "pigeons from the Curonian Spit" or "Zarkaus goose." But back then, they caught the birds differently: by casting nets.
Modern fishing traps were designed in 1957 by biological station employee Jānis Jakšis and were primarily designed to catch small songbirds. The most numerous of these are siskins, goldcrests, warblers, warblers, tits, starlings, and thrushes.
Hawks, woodpeckers, cuckoos, and owls are also seen. Historically, the most common bird to visit the spit is the chaffinch, known locally as the "freezing bachelor." This is because the males arrive first in early March and begin settling in, followed by the females about two weeks later. The Latin word for chaffinch is "fringilla," hence the name of the field station. Thanks to a program developed at the Biostation, the capture and banding of birds is now accompanied by a detailed in-vivo examination, allowing for rapid recording of their size, body weight, fat reserves, molt status, and sexual cycle stage.
Arseniy Tsvey showed us how it's done. We caught a titmouse. Wing length is measured with a standard centimeter ruler. This measurement can be used to determine the bird's age, and in adults, even its sex. The fat layer is determined by inflating the feathers on the neck and belly. Birds have translucent skin, making the fat layer, if present, easily visible. To determine the bird's weight, the bird is placed upside down in a cup resembling an ice cream cone and placed on a scale. The process usually takes about twenty seconds. All data is recorded in a log. Each bird has its own ring size.
Mysterious dunes and dancing forest
The most popular eco-trails on the Curonian Spit are “Dancing Forest” and “Efa Height”.
A route featuring an unusual section of coniferous forest, the trunks of which twist and turn intricately, is located at kilometer 37 of the spit. Both adults and children can complete it without any training. It's very easy, just over one kilometer long. There are no steep climbs or stairs; the route runs along boardwalks and is even stroller-friendly.
This forest is nicknamed "the dancing forest" because the tree trunks in this particular section of the spit have an unusual twisted shape at their bases, creating the impression of swirling in a mysterious dance. The cause of this "dance" remains unclear.
"There are various theories, ranging from natural factors: strong winds constantly blowing in one direction, soil composition and properties, to the presence of a certain energy force—a magnetic field," Olga Bolshakova, press secretary for the national park, told us. "Biologists believe the trees were damaged by moths of the leafroller family. They lay their eggs in the terminal bud of the pine tree. When the caterpillars hatch, they completely consume this bud, causing the pine tree to develop a side shoot, which then becomes the main trunk. But this doesn't explain why some trees begin to bend at the very roots, and why not all trees and only in this area."
According to Olga Bolshakova, the "dancing" trees suffer greatly from tourists. Despite the restrictions, many want to take photos next to the pines, climbing them and peeling off the bark. The ring tree has suffered the most. Some visitors believe that climbing through the loop formed by the trunk will make them look younger. Therefore, the most valuable specimens are now protected by wooden fences.
Not far from the "Dancing Forest," approximately five kilometers away, lies one of the highest dunes in Europe—the Orekhovaya Dune (German for Petsch). The dune's highest point, 62 meters, was named Efa Heights in honor of dune inspector Franz Efa, whose work was dedicated to the study and stabilization of shifting sands. The eco-trail is over two kilometers long, requiring an uphill climb along numerous steps. The trail features benches and observation platforms from which you can admire the peninsula's terrain and changing landscapes. A beautiful panorama of the Curonian Lagoon, the Baltic Sea, the dunes, the forest, and the village of Morskoye opens up. However, access to the water is prohibited in the vicinity of the route and observation platform. If you wish to descend to the sea, return to the parking lot and cross to the opposite side of the road. There are wooden walkways and stairs leading down to the sea.
Tourists can come to the spit all year round.
"The tourist routes are also open to visitors in winter," explained Olga Bolshakova. "Starting in the second half of December, our staff hosts costumed fairy tales for children and adults right in the forest. This is extremely popular, but you need to book in advance. We post special dates for these fairy tales on our website."
National park staff believe the spit is beautiful year-round, although winter brings strong winds and the weather isn't ideal for long walks.